Steam, Scones, and the Brontës: A Jolly Trip to Haworth

6th October 2024

If you’ve ever fantasized about sipping tea with Charlotte Brontë or perhaps getting a stern glare from Emily for interrupting her writing, I have just the adventure for you! It all started on a crisp Yorkshire morning, with my base camp set at the delightful Thisledo Holiday Cottage in Skipton. As I inhaled the fresh Dales air, I couldn’t help but feel that I was in the perfect setting for a literary pilgrimage.

The agenda? A day trip to Haworth, home of the Brontë sisters, and a chugging ride on the Worth Valley Steam Railway. I knew this was going to be fun the moment I packed my basket of essentials: sandwiches, scones, and an emergency copy of Wuthering Heights (for dramatic readings, obviously).

All Aboard the Worth Valley Steam Railway!

Skipton may be where I’m laying my head, but Haworth is where the heart of this trip lies – and what better way to get there than aboard the iconic Worth Valley Steam Railway? I could practically hear the ghostly echoes of Victorian passengers whispering, “Watch your bustle!” as I stepped onto the platform.

The train itself is like stepping back in time. The wood-panelled carriages, the smell of coal smoke, and the rhythmic chuff chuff of the engine made me feel as though I was on my way to a 19th-century ball (or at least a very genteel picnic).

Now, I’m no literary critic, but it’s hard to imagine Emily Brontë riding this train, staring moodily out of the window, crafting lines like, “I am Heathcliff.” Still, there’s something undeniably atmospheric about rattling through the countryside on an old steam train.

At every station, you half expect to see a brooding Byronic hero waiting to whisk you away (note: they don’t offer that service on the timetable, but I’ve written a strongly worded letter to suggest it).

Haworth: Brontë Central

As the train pulled into Haworth, I knew I was in for a treat. Cobblestone streets wind up toward the Brontë Parsonage, the very home where literary magic was forged. The village feels frozen in time, as if the sisters might pop out of a doorway at any moment, muttering about their next book or demanding more ink.

But first, tea! Because no trip to a Yorkshire village is complete without a proper cream tea. I ducked into a charming little tea room where I indulged in scones so fluffy they could’ve floated away on a cloud of clotted cream. If Jane Eyre had had one of these on hand, she might have dealt with Mr. Rochester’s shenanigans with more cheer.

Tea finished, it was time to explore the Brontë Parsonage. Walking through the house where Jane Eyre, Wuthering Heights, and The Tenant of Wildfell Hall were conceived is nothing short of surreal. Charlotte’s writing desk is so small that it’s hard to believe her towering works came from such humble quarters. And Emily’s bedroom? Let’s just say it has the kind of gothic atmosphere that screams, “There’s probably a ghost here. His name is Heathcliff.”

A Literary Dream Come True

As I wandered through Haworth, I couldn’t help but feel a deep connection to the Brontës’ world. There’s something about this rugged landscape, with its moorland views and wild, windswept skies, that speaks to the creative soul.

And let’s not forget the people-watching! Haworth is the kind of place where you’ll meet all sorts of Brontë enthusiasts: the hardcore fans quoting lines from Villette at breakfast, the casual tourists who “liked the movie version,” and the occasional confused dog walker who just wanted a peaceful stroll through the village.

Back to Skipton, Back to Thisledo

After a day steeped in literary history, I hopped back on the steam train, satisfied and slightly smug with my newfound Brontë knowledge. Back at Thisledo Holiday Cottage, I curled up by the fire with a good book (yes, it was Brontë-related – who do you think I am?), and I promptly fell asleep, clearly exhausted from all the intellectual stimulation.

So, what did I learn from this trip? That the best way to explore the world of the Brontës is via steam train, scones are a literary necessity, and Skipton’s Thisledo Holiday Cottage is the perfect haven after a day of Brontë fangirling (or fanboying).

And if you listen closely enough as you sit by the fire, you might just hear the wind on the moors whisper, “Heathcliff…”.

Either way, it’s a trip worth taking.